Hedi Slimane, artistic director of Celine, is no stranger to crafting rich, layered garments. This is his specialty, bringing a sense of tangible luxury to his clothes. Still, Slimane also wants to induce some element of performance, making all of his runway presentations a high-stakes show. Taking place at Los Angeles’ historic Wiltern and underscored by the White Stripes, the Celine Winter ‘23 presentation was an entertaining feast, embracing that rocker mentality. And, on a collection level, the garments reflect this spirit of live energy. Luxe but moving, models are ready to attend their favorite club or concert while looking their best.
Music is a clear source of inspiration for Hedi Slimane, having gained his stripes by dressing many of the uppermost figures in the music industry. This connection between performance and fashion seems intrinsic to Slimane, with the artistic director commenting, “I can only think about something almost tribal, fashion and live performance as a liturgic ritual. They are both about togetherness, belonging privately and publicly, semiotics, attitudes, and proportions. It is a language responding to the sound of the time.” That collaboration between the auditory and the visual was on full display at the Winter ‘23 runway presentation, with the showing featuring performances by Iggy Pop, The Strokes, Interpol, and a DJ set by The Kills.
The venue itself also has a historic connection to music and performance, further imbuing this aesthetic choice within the presentation. Originally a vaudeville theatre, the glitter, and colors of this iconic style of drama are still manifest within the space. The theatre then became a Warner Bros movie palace, moving towards that more visual, film medium. Now the theatre stands as a monument to all this history, filled with neon signs and glowing backdrops. For a collection that celebrates the world of live performance and entertainment, the Wiltern perfectly reflects Slimane’s mission.
